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Repairs and Fixes
Safey Line Installation for pre-Rondar boats Print E-mail
Written by Paul ZImmerman   
Friday, 07 August 2009 23:43

The Class Rules require that all boats have safety lines installed under the gunwale, and the deadline was May for all boats to comply.  That means you have to get it done before NAs next month!  Here is the description to add safety lines to Bennett boats.  See attached photos as well

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Care Of Carbon Masts Print E-mail
Written by Christian Jensen   
Saturday, 25 April 2009 09:15

The following is answers Christian posted in response to questions.

Can a carbon mast last as long as aluminum masts. Like a 30 year old Ensign mast?

 There are 30 year old carbon masts around. What is required for them to last is that you have to keep UV from breaking down the resin matrix (what you would notice by the resin turning yellow and chalky).

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Replacing the D Ring on the Bow a Bennett Viper Print E-mail
Written by Paul Zimmerman, USA 55   
The D ring on my bow snapped off after hitting the dock one day.

I was faced with replacing the D ring, a critical component on a Viper
because it ties off the end of the tack line for the spinnaker and secures
the spinnaker pole from bending too far under stress.

Here's what I found out...

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Hatch Doors Print E-mail
Written by Technical Committee   

The Tempress hatch doors that come on the side bins of the Bennett Boats feature a less than stellar design that breaks the plastic hinge pin if the cover is bent back to the deck. One way to avoid rewarding them $40 for this 3rd rate design technology, is to drill a couple holes and run a cord through the slot. It still seals well, and won't break again.

Replacement doors can be purchased at West Marine, Lay Line and other chandlers. The doors come with a kit that includes a new hatch. When you reinstall, install with the hinges down, so that the door opens on to the floor. It is less likely to break that way. 
 
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Rudder Mounts-Early Boats Print E-mail
Written by Technical Committee   
ImageThe 2 piece rudder mounts on older Vipers are subject to all kinds of forces and vibrations which cause the screws to loosen over time. Buy 1/4" stainless steel lock washers - they were not fitted at the factory on most of the early boats. SPECIAL NOTE: Some early boats only had gudgeons with two mounting screws - consider having them changed to the new Rondar one piece style. You will need to provide a new backing plate, so consider having it done by a quality race boat shop..

On early boats (approximately #30 and lower but we don't know for sure), the rudder post (affectionately known as "the stump") was a separate component that was attached with epoxy glue onto the deck. If you have an early boat and you see signs of cracking around the foot of the stump.....Remove it and reattach it securely! This involves grinding and glass work.......but its better than losing your rudder going down a wave downhill.

On later boats the stump was built into the mold as an integral part of the deck and there have been no problems. Rondar has gone one step further and the rudder post is not only part of the mold, it also has an internal frame that attaches it to both the deck and the hull in a bullet proof manner.

 

 
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